Hiking Oaxaca – El Carrizal 2

El Carrizal, located high in the Sierras about 2 1/2 hours from the city of Oaxaca, is one of our favorite hiking/weekend excursion destinations. Some of the local delights from the trip last year can be viewed here.

View of the village of El Carrizal from a trail side mirador (lookout).

A highlight of this visit was learning about three bakeries that produce flat, round and quite tasty loaves, which we savored at every meal! The bread is totally local – growing the trigo (wheat), separating the grain, grinding into flour, mixing, and finally baking.
Click on any photo for a slide show.

Photo by Lorna Stone.

The bakery below is owned by two families who bake bread twice a week.

Our guide said the bright green fields are the trigo

Baskets for transporting bread to markets around Oaxaca

Cooling and waiting to be bagged

Fuel for the oven and the finished product

Wood fueled oven

Forming the individual loaves

This mixer was the only piece of machinery.

Freshly ground flour – no additives here!

The kneading of bread was in this enormous trough made from one tree, smoothed with years of work.

Photo and caption by Lorna Stone. Thanks, Lorna!

Tasting and learning!

Corn is another product totally grown and processed locally. Kernals are dried, ground, and made into delicious tortillas, and the husks and stalks are fed to animals. Maybe the husks are even used for tamales! As we were walking along the dirt road toward the mirador, these people waved us over to chat. The corn is typically put on the flat rooftops to dry then removed from the cobs and stored for grinding into the meal or flour for tortillas.

Loading cornstalks for the animals

Nice working conditions!

Future tortillas

The people of El Carrizal are exceptionally friendly and welcoming. Everyone agreed that these people are what made such a magical weekend! We’ll definitely be back next year.

Hiking Oaxaca: El Carrizal

The angle of the rising sun creates brilliant colors as village life unfolds below our cabañas. El Carrizal is the most pastoral and serene of any mountain village that we have explored so far. The town spreads out in a bowl – it WAS the view, in contrast to other villages that offer views of the vast valleys of Oaxaca.

click on any photo for a slide show and full captions

Café de Olla, coffee that has a hint of cinnamon and sugar, is brewing in this built-in pot. The coffee is served in bowls.

The wood fired cook top boasts the coffee pot, metal surface for bubbling pots of beans, and a ceramic comal for cooking fresh tortillas.

As morning light strikes the mountainside, villagers with their loaded burros are already trekking up the hill to an unknown destination.

Fueled by a delicious and hearty meal, hikers and birders are ready to hit the trail.

Sunrise over the Sierras

Delighted by the lovely, peaceful village, hikers began the descent to the valley far below

Maracuya, a fruit for making cold drinks and nieve (a kind of ice cream)

Corn drying on the roof

Cascadas spill over rocky ledges and force their way around boulders, forming streams that meander on down through the valleys, undoubtedly gathering into more cascadas along the way!

A short rest in the shade…

and then up to a mirador (lookout) at the top!

Everyone wondered what was growing in this impossibly green field!

A huge variety of plants grow in the Sierras – from this enormous maguey to a tiny cactus. Photographer Impett estimated the quiote (flower stalk) to be 40 feet tall!

 

Wild orchids and bromeliads nestle in tree branches

Don’t tread on me!

Taking advantage of the cold mountain streams, people in many villages have built small trucha (trout) farms and restaurants. This man is catching our dinner – talk about fresh!   Photo by Rick Impett.

Satisfied customer – this is a medium?

Mojo de ajo – trout served with lots of garlic.

Breeding ponds for the trucha. Photo by Rick Impett

Whether hiking, biking, or relaxing with a good book, the friendly people and beautiful vistas of El Carrizal make it a wonderful place to visit!

Photo by Silvia Impett

BUT BEWARE – YOU NEVER KNOW WHO IS WATCHING…

Photo by Rick Impett

 

 

 

Hiking Oaxaca: Benito Juárez

Perched at 10,000 ft. in the Sierras, overlooking the Tlacolula Valley, the village of Benito Juarez is a wonderful destination for hiking through cool pine forests, mountain biking, horseback riding, birdwatching, or just hanging out and enjoying the fresh mountain air.

Looking down on Benito Juárez from the mirador. Rick Impett

Click on any photo to enlarge it. Photos contributed by other hikers have the photographer’s name in the caption.
A group of 20 hikers and birders, through the organization Hoofing It In Oaxaca, spent a fun weekend participating in a variety of outdoor activities.

Lots to do – zip line, hanging bridge, hiking to BIG rock or waterfalls – Rick Impett

Welcome to Benito Juárez – Rick Impett

Local guides lead hikers through pine forests, teaching about medicinal uses of plants and local history – Ann Crew

What goes up must come down and vice versa – the mirador is a steep hike UP, which creates a huff and puff situation at this altitude, but it’s so easy going back down (though sometimes hard on the knees). Hiking to the cascada was the opposite – DOWN to the bottom of a ravine followed by the steep climb up. Either way we passed through beautiful farmland where friendly local people waved to us from their fields.

Giant maguey plants make perfect fences! – Rick Impett

Showing off for the ladies.

photo by Rick Impett

Beginning to prepare the field for the next planting. – Rick Impett

Further uphill she pulls out the last of the dry cornstalks.

Bundled and loaded, the cornstalks will be used for multiple purposes.

 

Guide showing us how people carve out sections of certain pines to use as fire starters. We call these magic sticks because you can light one little stick with a match and it will start a properly laid pile of wood.

Sap in the heartwood that creates the magic sticks. Boy Scouts would have loved this!

Towering pines, some 100 feet tall and straight as an arrow, fill the Sierra mountainsides.

Hikers are dwarfed by one of the biggest maguey plants I have ever seen! A loaded crab apple tree is growing behind it.

Many varieties of mushrooms pop up in the pine forests, but most appear much later in the year, so we were lucky to see these.

Flowers of a type of aloe – I think they are called Red Hot Pokers in English

Lupine grow in the spruce forests of Alaska, in mountain areas down the west coast, and here they are again at high altitudes of Mexico!

Our group included a family with two kids excited to try the zip line that was built on the mirador.

Getting ready to zip!

Last instructions…then let go!

Reaching out at the end of the line.

This is how zippers are retrieved when the line incline is not steep enough for their light weights to reach the end.

Some zippers express unbounded joy!

Others just hang out and marvel at the world far below.

Ecotourism facilities are developed as a way to bring income and employment to mountain communities. People in the community take turns volunteering for a year at a time to support their villages. So welcoming and kind, they are really what make these excursions special. These ladies prepared tasty food that showcased local mushrooms, the hot chocolate is exceptional (no powdered mix here!) and of course there is mezcal.
Each cabaña has a fireplace, and in the evening a young man brings wood and a magic stick and builds a cozy fire. In the morning (or whenever you want) he will light a water heater so you can take a hot shower. Most of the villagers do not have these conveniences in their own homes. comment by hiker Bernie Goldray.

After a day of hiking, zipping, and birdwatching, friends gather to relax before strolling up (yes, it was UP) to the comedor for a yummy dinner and a boot of mezcal.

Photo by Jo-Anne Vandierendonck

Taking a well deserved siesta after a long day…our driver, guide who entertains us with stories and information, and friend extraordinaire, Nicolas Garcia.

Benito Juárez was one of the highlights of my trip. I will remember the views, the early morning fog rolling up the hills, the goat herder who asked to give me a hug because I was ‘muy fuerte’, watercress cooked on the comal for breakfast, the astonishing view from the mirador, the easy comraderie of our group, how elegant I was (think Audrey Hepburn!) with a hat and shirt wrapped around my head as I tried to sleep in the cold. Comments by Amber Karr.

HIKING OAXACA: Zegache to Ocotlán

All dressed up for the Day of the Dead festivities, this happy couple greeted us in the village of Zegache, where our hike began.

click on any photo to enlarge it   

 

The group gathered in front of the spectacular church of Santa Ana Zegache. No matter how many times I visit this church, its vivid colors entice me to take just a few more photos!

We headed out across a  flat and peaceful agricultural valley toward the villages of San Antonino and Ocotlán.  It’s wonderful to see small fields with several  varieties of vegetables instead of gigantic agribusiness farms. People grow many vegetables for sale in local markets, and they use oxen and horses to pull plows and wagons. Farmers in some villages collectively own a tractor and everyone can use it!

Cabbages and beans

Red flowers are Cockscomb

Minding the goats

Picking radishes, field of onions

Washing and bundling delicious Oaxaca radishes

Always there is corn…

Brilliant marigolds and red cockscombs are the favored flowers for Day of the Dead celebrations, and people were cutting them and hauling wagon loads to the cemeteries to use for decorating the graves of their ancestors.

Yet another beautifully painted church in San Antonino

Ocotlán was the home of well known artist Rodolfo Morales, and these are sections of a huge mural he painted behind the portico of the municipal building.

And then… what luck! We spotted a sidewalk mezcal bar and joined some locals for a welcome and unexpected end of hike treat!

For more photos of this and other colorful churches: https://alaskamexicoandbeyond.wordpress.com/2013/03/18/painted-churches/
For a short biography on Rodolfo Morales: http://www.indigoarts.com/gallery_oaxaca_morales1.htm
For interesting information about the saints inside the church: http://colonialmexicoinsideandout.blogspot.mx/2013/10/painted-churches-of-oaxaca-santa-ana.html

Cee’s Which Way Challenge #12

SOMETIMES ACROSS IS THE ONLY WAY

MIRADOR ABOVE THE VILLAGE OF BENITO JUAREZ, OAXACA

SANTIAGO YOSUNDUA, NEAR THE VILLAGE OF SAN MIGUEL DE GRANDE IN WESTERN OAXACA

click here to enjoy more Which Way photos:
http://ceenphotography.com/2015/03/25/cees-which-way-photo-challenge-2015-week-12/

Ruins of a Spanish Mine

Spread along the Rio Papaloapam, high in the Sierra Norte north of the city of Oaxaca, are the ruins of Spanish haciendas that were built and inhabited during the years of Spanish exploitation of the mineral riches of the area.

According to historical records, Cortés learned of the possible existence of gold and silver in the Sierras and immediately sent scouts in search of the minerals. They returned with the news that the mountains were indeed rich with gold and silver ore, and Cortés, ever the opportunist, claimed the entire Central Valley of Oaxaca for himself (year 1521). The Spaniards built the infrastructure needed for mining operations and constructed aqueducts, large haciendas, stone bridges, and a church. These remains are located deep in a lush valley near the villages of San Miguel Amatlán and Lachatao.

Hacienda Wall

Click on any photo to enlarge it   

The Friday hikers explored El Socorro, the first section of the Spanish ruins.

A sinuous highway (the highway signs said so!) led us through seemingly endless mountains that offered spectacular vistas. Local people navigate narrow gravel roads that zig-zag up the mountainsides to their villages.

Winding River, Winding Road

After climbing to the mountaintop to pick up our guides in the tiny village of Amatlán, our excellent bus driver maneuvered to the valley floor on a dirt road that was clearly not designed for a school bus! He received a loud cheer and applause when we reached the fork where the hikers got off and started down the trail, while he continued on to a wide spot where he was faced with the daunting task of turning the bus around!

Our guides hopped off the bus and cleared rocks from the “road.”

Trail to the old mines

Who Lives Here?

The guide said it’s a casa de arañas, or spider house. Friendly spiders, of course!

 

Ruins of the Hacienda

Trout were visible lazing in the shadows of pools in the clean, clear waters of the Rio Papaloapam.

Perfect circles of pink blossoms crown these fat cactus

Epiphytes grow anywhere and everywhere they can find a resting place. Some cactus favor the tops of old stone walls, while other prefer to just hang around.

At the end of a long day of busing, hiking, and exploring…what could be better than relaxing and spending the night in a cabaña with a view!

For information on ecotourism in The Sierra Norte, and how YOU TOO could hike in these magnificent mountains and end your day in one of many charming cabañas:

http://sierranorte.org.mx/

http://www.oaxaca.travel/

Several of the photos in this blog were taken by my husband, David, who has become a hiker and photographer too!

WOWs! in Western Oaxaca

Tucked away in the mountains of Western Oaxaca, home of the Mixteca, is the hidden gem of Cascada La Esmeralda. The Rio La Esmeralda tumbles over a high ledge and ricochets its way over rocky outcrops as it plummets more than 100 meters (328 ft.)to the valley below.

I recently spent the weekend with friends in the region of San Miguel el Grande, and the four of us and the dog packed into the front of their small Toyota pick-up and headed out to enjoy the day in this spectacular area near the town of Yosondúa.

Imagine Cascada Esmeralda thundering down this rockface during the rainy season! Since this is the middle of the dry season, and it has rained little for several months, the volume of water rushing over the edge has greatly diminished.

Click on any photo to enlarge it.

Upper Cascada Esmeralda

View of lower cascade from the footbridge

Cascada Esmeralda

Part of the ravine in front of the cascade

My friend and her dog relaxing poolside. On a hot day you might like a cool dip in the pool!

Crossing the footbridge, you will be awed with magnificent views of the cascade above, the valley below, and the mountains beyond.

Not for the faint of heart!

One zip line has been built below the bridge, and from our perfect vantage point on the bridge we watched this man listen to instructions and ZIP! We also watched another man who donned his helmet, asked many questions, and then chickened out! Maybe next year.

Workers are completing the platforms for another zip line that has been installed high above the bridge. Maybe the second man decided to wait for the REAL challenge!

The other side looks so far away!

Crossing the bridge

Preparing to zip across the ravine.

What a ride!

Zipping high above the tree tops across the ravine takes less than a minute!

Convenient stone walkways are being constructed through the forest although many paths crisscross the hillsides, and visitors are free to walk anywhere they want. There are no signs telling people what to do or not to do. So refreshing.

During your descent you will pass two lovely eco-cabañas where you could spend a relaxing night after a day of hiking.

New walkways make some areas more easily accessible.

Cabin with a view!

Look up!

The longest drop is high at the top

A waterbug skating across the surface of a quiet pool cast an ominous shadow!

Tadpoles about 2 inches long whizzed among dried leaves and branches.

Back in the village of Victoria, where my friends live, the “Fiesta de la Virgen de la Candelaria y el Señor de los Milagros” was in full swing. We feasted on “fiesta food” (tacos, ice cream, fried bananas, cups of fresh fruit…) laughed as we watched the Luche Libre (Mexican variety of professional wrestling) and hung out to wait for the second WOW of the day – the castillos.  It’s difficult to know the true height of these towers of fireworks, but our estimation in relation to nearby buildings and trees is that they must be at least 75 feet tall – maybe more. A castillo has to be one of the most wonderful of all things Mexican.

Stunning fireworks awed the crowd between the lighting of each section, and of course all was accompanied by very loud music! I didn’t even try to photograph anymore; I just enjoyed the show.

Looming above the church and the trees, three castillos are waiting to dazzle the crowd.

The castillos are lit in sections, and the wheels spin, whistle, and fling sparks in every direction!

Bursting into colored flame, the bird and the wheel below it begin to rotate. Everyone cheers at the finale, as the small wheel on top spins off into the night sky.

Showers of fire.

Bless Your Pueblo – My Mother

WOW, What a day!

If you would like to see more castillo photos, or to learn how they are built, click https://alaskamexicoandbeyond.wordpress.com/2013/01/30/are-mexican-fireworks-made-in-china/ or https://alaskamexicoandbeyond.wordpress.com/2013/01/21/life-is-a-blast/

Hierve el Agua

“A picture is worth a thousand words” – the enormous gap between the guidebook’s description of Hierve el Agua and the breathtaking reality.

View of pool area from the trail that leads to the petrified falls

Click on any picture to see it enlarged.

If the words Hierve el Agua, or Boiling Water suggest lazing away the afternoon slipping in and out of hot water pools …surprise! Water is indeed boiling up from an underground spring, but it is NOT HOT. Take a dip in this gorgeous pool and the water temperature could also take your breath away!
The spring water is laden with minerals, and over thousands of years a system of petrified waterfalls has been formed by calcium carbonate deposits.

Photogenic poolside tree

Spring that is the source of water

Feels great on your feet!

Mineral water channel from the spring to the pools

Calcified runoff from pool

Mineral water flowing to pools

View of main falls from pool area

A trail leads from the pool area across small dikes and channels formed by mineral deposits that built up over thousands of years. Steps have been carved into some of the deposits to make your descent down one side of the largest mineral waterfall a little easier. Gazing up at the face of the 30 meter (98 ft.) high falls, you can appreciate the eons nature spent creating a masterpiece.

View of main falls

Falls from the trail below

Falls from below

Detail on face of the main falls

View of main petrified falls

Along the trail you will notice a complex system of irrigation canals and terraces built by the Zapotecs about 2500 years ago.

Prehispanic channel

Admire the prehispanic channels, don’t destroy them

Pools are above this cascade

View of Cascade

Cascade from the trail below

View of cascades from the trail to the falls.

Hidden grotto

Visitors can enjoy the many types of plant life that flourish in the arid conditions.

Epiphytes or Aerophytes perch on the branches of many trees

Tiny trailside beauty

Agave preparing to bloom

Plants will grow anywhere!

People above are looking down at the pool area

You can see forever

Pools with a view of the Sierras

Pay a small fee for road maintenance

We traveled the 50 km. from the city of Oaxaca to Hierve el Agua  (town of San Isidro Roaguía  near the archaeological site of Mitla) by colectivo , which is a kind of shared taxi that is common in Oaxaca. We were thrilled by spectacular vistas as we wound our way up paved mountain roads to the 1821 meter (5800 ft.) altitude of Hierve el Agua. These thrills paled in comparison to the trip down. Riding in the back of a pick-up truck colectivo that climbed at least another 2000 ft., this time on a narrow, twisting dirt road, I was treated to views of Hierve el Agua far below! 

Hiking Oaxaca: Benito Juárez to La Neveria

The Hoofing It In Oaxaca hike was high in the Sierra Norte. As always, the bus trip to and from the hike locations is part of the adventure! The bus began its climb on the valley floor at the town of Diaz Ordaz (elevation 5577 ft. or 1700 m.) and wound its way up the mountain roads, which began as pavement and later changed to hard-packed dirt.

Click on any photo to see it enlarged

Road from Diaz Ordaz

Valley Landscape

Valley view, looking back toward Díaz Ordaz.

The hike began in the pueblo of Benito Juárez, elevation 9600 ft. or 2926 m. Benito Juárez is one of a group of mountain towns called Pueblos Mancomunados that work together to welcome visitors and provide information, guides, accommodations and activities for the enjoyment of their magnificent forested mountain-top environment.
During the month of August many varieties of mushrooms are gathered in the area, and mushrooms in escabeche (kind of like spicy pickles) and other taste treats are available in the visitor center. We bought some yummy chocolate/mushroom balls that helped sustain us through the hike! I should have taken a photo before we ate them all.

Welcome center in Benito Juárez.

Basketball court

Trail Markers

Sierra Norte

Sierra Norte

Sierra Norte

Sierra Norte

People farm the slopes, mostly growing corn for their own use.

Working the land 2

Preparing for planting corn

Corn is dried in the sun and then processed in different ways for making tortillas, hominy for pozole, or tamales. Photo taken by David.

Working the land

Leaving the pueblo of Benito Juárez, we admired spectacular vistas as we hiked along the ridge, then we trekked downhill through towering pine and fir forests, enjoying the cool shade and carpet of pine needles.

Lunch time

Mountain Maguey. The maguey plants in these mountain regions are enormous!

Blooming Maguey

Stream Crossing. It was all uphill from here!

Sierra Norte mountains near the pueblo of Benito Juarez.

A type of Bromeliad

Trail side flowers

Bromeliad

Forest Orchids

Valentin, our knowledgeable guide, taught us the names and medicinal uses of many plants. The creek crossing was at the bottom of a mountain, and the pueblo of La Neveria, our destination, was at the top. The trail was long and steep, but Valentin was quite considerate of our need to stop frequently so our pounding hearts could settle down!

Benito Juárez in the distance. The cleared spot center right is Benito Juárez, the pueblo where we began the hike.

Valentin was our excellent guide!

Cabaña at La Neveria

For more information on the Pueblos Mancomunados: http://www.sierranorte.org.mx
For more information about the hikes: http://www.hoofingitinoaxaca.com

Hiking Oaxaca: Santa Ana del Valle

Hugging the foot of a mountain in the Tlacolula Valley, the charming village of Santa Ana del Valle was the starting point for the weekly hike of “Hoofing It In Oaxaca.” Zapotec is the common language spoken here, and many people earn at least part of their living by weaving gorgeous rugs and other tapestries.

The village of Santa Ana is in the foreground, and Tlacolula, the largest city in this valley, is in the distance.

Our destination is on the backside of the tallest mountain on the right.

Plaza of Santa Ana del Valle

Beginning the Climb

One of our guides from Santa Ana overlooking the village of Teotitlán del Valle. The city of Oaxaca sprawls through the far valley behind the dark mountain a little to the right of center. He was quite knowledgeable about the plants along the trail, and with his machete he quickly crafted a walking stick for me!

Santa Ana del Valle Overlook

Watch where you sit! These tiny cactus were growing among rocks in areas where we stopped to take a break. The dead looking plants at the side are called Siempre Vive (always alive) because when the rainy season begins they turn green and open!

Variety of Agave

Cactus Variety

Enjoying the views and the great variety of plant life were good excuses for stopping and catching our breath!

From an altitude of approximately 5400 feet, we climbed 1619 ft. (493.5 m.)to a high point of about 7032 ft. (2143 m.) Particularly for those of us used to living at sea level, there was a lot of huffing and puffing! Our rewards were spectacular views in every direction and the opportunity to visit an unexcavated archaeological site.

This ancient ball court is part of the unexcavated archaeological site at the top of the mountain.

People in Santa Ana come to the mountain top site to ask for help in acquiring a new home. Part of the ceremony involves building a little house with the stones from the ancient structures.

For those who can read Spanish, this explanation about the archaeological site is quite fascinating.

Looking north east in the direction of Veracruz. The mountain range is the Sierra Madre de Oaxaca, and they seem to go forever.

Break time at the top!

Larry, our fearless leader and organizer of these great hikes, is always ready to snap your photo when you least expect it!

View NE toward Cuajimoloyas

Descending is SO much easier than climbing!

Back in the plaza of Santa Ana, we visited their lovely church and bought handwoven tapestries from friendly local artists.

Church in Santa Ana

Handwoven Mini-rugs We like to display these beautiful weavings on our wall!